![]() ![]() Something internally is "slipping" or jumping and causing the timing to go out. ![]() This is not the case, as it has happened 4 times now, and I made a reference mark with a sharpie pen indexing the timer body to the engine cases - it hasn't moved! When I re-check the timing with the strobe/gun it has jumped 15 or 20 degrees to the retarded side.įirst time it happened, I thought that I had'nt tightened the timer hold down clamp enough, and it had slipped. Now the problem is, after timing with the gun, the engine runs real nice & smooth for about 50 - 100 miles. Re-install timing hole plug, fire engine, pull triger on timing light, and adjust timer body until white paint line lines up perfectly with coathanger/pointer. I run an open belt primary so timing with a strobe light is very simple: make a pointer (I use a piece of coathanger pinched between the top rear jiffy stand mount bolt) and make a bright white paint mark on the engines front belt pulley when the advance mark is aligned in the timing hole/window. I did this with a sears/craftsman timing gun(strobe light). Once started, I tweaked the timing and got it running at 30deg BTDC at full advance(3000 rpm). ![]() (I set the breaker points to open tdc) This static timing method may not be everyones idea of correct, but thats how I did it and it got me close enough to start the engine. I then installed the timer, and static timed it with a testlight. When I assembled my pan engine, I aligned the timer drive gear dot with the cam gear dot(even though I dont believe it makes any difference if you do or don't). perhaps someone can open my eyes as to what I'm overlooking here. ![]()
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